1. Start with a pair of Carl Zeiss Cinemizer video goggles and…

2. … a Bolle Y6 OTG ski mask.

3. Get yourself the fpvmanuals Delrin lens kit, which includes the Delrin lens, sticker and felt comedy moustache.

4. Pop out the original lens and insert the fpvmanuals Delrin lens in its place.

5. Use a T8 Torx screwdriver for the right side-arm (‘temple’)

6. And a small Philips screwdriver for the bottom.

7. Gently lever off the right side-arm cover (it’s now just clipped in).

8. Carefully lever the black connector-latch out (e.g. with a scalpel) to release the small flexi-cable from the PCB.

9. With a thin ‘pokey’ tool, push the side-arm hinge-pin out (this will require you to gentle lever away the Cinemizer goggles’ front cover a bit) and remove the right side-arm from the Cinemizer goggles.

10. Carefully cut through the right plastic side-arm to release the embedded cable. I found this part the trickiest. I used wire cutters, but a Dremel and steady hand would probably be easier. Take your time! Alternatively, please read matthew.wright5 comment at the bottom for a potentially less risky method.

11. Repeat steps 5, 6 and 7 for the left side-arm.

12. If you have no requirement for audio (I didn’t), then carefully unclip the Cinemizer goggles front cover (there are no further screws which need undoing) and unplug the left audio connector from the PCB.

13. This is what you’re left with.

14. Re-attach the small flexi-cable to the PCB on the right side-arm (reverse of stage 8 )

15. Get some Sugru of matching colour. I went with black and I think used 3 mini-sachets in total for my build.

16, Gently push the PCB back into the goggles and after checking they still work, neatly encase the cable exit with Sugru, pushing some of the Sugru into the cable exit hole.

17. Adjust the Cinemizer goggles in the Delrin lens so they’re square and level and you’re happy with their position, both cosmetically and functionally. I found the small nose-bridge on the Cinemizer goggles butted up nicely against the inside of the Delrin lens. Put a cable-tie around the ski mask and slowly tighten (one click at a time) until the the Delrin lens perfectly follows the contours of the Cinemizer goggles. You should now be able to wear the ski mask without supporting the Cinemizer goggles. Again, confirm they still work and you’re happy with the positioning.

18. Use the Sugru around the inside of the ski mask to adhere the Delrin lens to the perimeter of the Cinemizer goggles. I think I used 2 sachets for this. Leave the Sugru for 30 hours to harden and then snip the cable-tie.

19. What you end up with are the coolest looking and best performing FPV centric video goggles you can get!

The new QAV500 — a purpose built Quadcopter frame for FPV and videography in a 500 size configuration. Release Date: June 2012. Price TBD.

Share your thoughts and ask questions on the forums: FPVLab | RCGroups

Features

• Vibration Isolation Design — The QAV500 is separated into 2 parts: a “dirty” section and a “clean” section. All electronics including flight camera, HD cameras, flight controller, etc. are located on the “clean” part of the frame and are isolated from the “dirty” motor/prop section by custom developed vibration bobbins. Reducing vibrations to the Flight Controller results in smoother flight performance. Reducing vibrations to the cameras results in smoother video quality.
• 3-Camera Mounts — The frame accommodates 3 cameras: a forward facing HD cam (GoPro), a forward facing flight cam, and a downward facing HD cam (GoPro). The frame can be flown with all 3 cameras in operation at the same time due to a large and unique Lipo mounting area to optimize the CG.
• Prop Free Video — None of the cameras have any props in view even with 10″ props.
• Power and endurance — The kit is designed to accommodate large multi-rotor motors in the 40mm stator diameter class like the Tiger MT-4006-13 or HK NX-4008. These motors require a 25x25mm and 19x19mm mounting hole pattern or a unique triangular mounting pattern. The kit’s aluminum arms allow you to mount these motors with all 3 (NX-4008) or 4 screws (Tiger MT-4006) unlike the DJI plastic arms, which only accommodate motors with a 19×16 mounting hole pattern.  The kit is intended to be flown with large 4s Lipos. This power train provides lots of lift and long flight times. These motors and 10″ props provide a hover time of 12 minutes with a 3300mah 4s Lipo while still landing the Lipo with 14.2 volts remaining under load (measured prior to landing).
• Symmetrical Design — Unlike other FPV focused quadcopters, the QAV500 is perfectly symmetrical. The motors are 500mm diagonal from motor shaft to motor shaft and the flight controller is centered at the CG point in the middle of the frame. This ensures that the motors/escs work equally hard and that the FC can apply consistant power to level the frame.

• Machined Aluminum Arms — The arms are machined from of a single piece of airplane grade aluminum. They start out as a solid block of aluminum and are then ground down by a CNC machine to precise tolerances. They are then anodized to protect the surface. They are strong and have no flex. This one piece design creates a very low profile and reduces parts count and possible failure points. Each arm only weights 53g. The arms have large 45mm mounting plates that accomodate large 40mm stator size multi-rotor motors.
• Large Payload Area — The area for flight controller and FPV equipment is large and completely covered by a Flight Controller cover. The FC cover also doubles as an optional battery tray.
• CG Optimization Freedom — The lipo can be moved across a large area of the frame to optimize the CG. This enables flying with different equipment and number of cameras. Other, non-symmetrical fpv frames force you to place the lipo in a fixed position which limits your options on what type of lipo to use. The QAV500 can be flown with 3300mah 4s Lipos but accommodates large 5000mah 4s lipos as well. It supports LOS flying with no cameras or flying with 3 cameras at the same time.
• Frame Kit Materials – the materials of the kit are light and stiff black G10, milled aluminum, and custom aluminum spacers.
• Weight — One of the largest and most powerful purpose FPV Quad frame designs, the QAV500 frame weighs a mere 450g. Fully loaded with 2 cameras, 3300mah 4s Lipo, and large 40mm stator motors, the AUW is around 1.6kg.

Vibration Isolation

Vibrations on a multi-rotor cause havoc to the sensitive sensors that are at the heart of every flight controller (“FC”). The FC constantly checks for the smallest of movements to counteract them so that the multi-rotor stays level. Vibrations to your FC are the equivalent of noise and static in your FPV video signal. In addition to the negative impact on your FC, for FPV and videography, vibrations negatively impact your recorded video signal and disturbs your flight camera picture. The QAV500 was designed to reduce vibrations to the FC and your cameras by separating the frame into “clean” and “dirty” parts which are separated by custom developed vibration mounts. Finding a way to decouple the vibrations coming from the motors/props to cameras and the FC is one of the most compelling aspects of this new platform.

Prop Free Video

The QAV500 accommodates 3 cameras. All of these cameras are mounted on the “clean” part of the frame and do not show any props (10″ prop is the recommended prop size).

Test flight with 3 cameras (2 GoPros and one Flight Cam). The GoPros in this video are simply mounted on the stock frame with a bit of velcro and some neoprene tape underneath it.

Center of Gravity Optimized

The frame was designed to accomodate large 4s lipos and use them as your counter balance to create a 100% vertically balanced design even with the GoPro and flight cam sitting all the way at the front of the frame. You move the lipo forward or backward to zero in on your CG.  The frame is horizontally balanced as all the equipment sits in the center of the frame. The “Z” axis is balanced by moving the Lipo to the prop line. The lipo can also be positioned on the top of the FC cover when flying without any cameras (LOS) or with an optional, downward facing GoPro HD cam (at the back of the frame).

Recommended Build

The QAV500 is designed to allow you to cary a lot of equipment and provide you long flight times. While you can build the QAV500 with any out-runner motor you’d like, we recommend Tiger MT-4006 720KV or HK NX-4008 620kv motors with 10″ props, 18A Plush ESCs and a big 4s Lipo (3300mah or larger).

Different thrust configurations for the NX-4008 with 3s or 4s and 9″ and 10″ props.

Prop Size	3s Lipo		4s Lipo
	1 Motor	4 Motors Total Thrust	1 Motor	4 Motors Total Thrust
9x4.7	407g	1628g	665g	2660g
10x4.7	700g	2800g	1129g	4516g

I worked with Scorpion to manufacture fpvmanuals branded versions of their “medium” strap which is 220mm long. This size is great for attaching even large lipos to a tri or quad frame and many other uses. While HK sells the scorpion straps, like many popular products, they tend to be sold out.

These straps are now available at GetFPV as a 3-pack.

Separately from this build manual, you may want to watch the build videos by Team Black Sheep. TBS uses many different techniques from what is described here. You should watch the videos and read these instructions and choose the best of both.

ZII Threads

Ask questions at the two big threads about the ZII:

• RCGroups ZII Thread
• FPVLab ZII Thread

TBS Videos

Ritewing Build Instructions

Kit Contents

• (2) Precision EPOR molded wing panels
• (2) Custom balsa pieces (trailing edge)
• (6) Fiber glass reinforcement spars
• (1) CNC T-6 aluminum motor plate
• Corrugated plastic package for utility bays and winglets

Optional items

• CNC laser cut corrugated GoPro and flight camera box (with camera protecting rail skids)
• Optional clear laminate package for strength and durability

Basic building tools

• 3/4 in x 3 in retractable snap blade razor (available at Walmart)
• Xacto knife
• Zona Balsa Saw
• Sharpie marker
• Small hobby screwdriver
• Scissors
• Soldering iron and accessories
• Low temperature hot glue gun
• Popsicle sticks

Approved Adhesives

• 5 Minute Epoxy
• Gorilla Glue (Slow cured dark or fast light)
• Lock Tight 200 Spray Adhesive (in multiple light coats)
• 3M 77 spray adhesive (in multiple light coats)
• 3M packing and storage tape (for Elevon attachment)
• Transparent Magic Tape
• Foam Safe and Regular CA with activator
• 3M 90 (Caution: Use with caution as it contains harsh solvents, which may attack the foam. Manufacturer uses this product only to join the wing halves together). See building instructions for details.

Spray Paints

• Low VOC or Foam Safe Spray Paint
• Krylon Rust-Oleum Flats and Neons Any flat color will work well, and all paints should be applied in multiple, light coats. Manufacturer suggests using extreme caution when using dark colors, as it can melt, attack, and/or destroy the foam. When flat colors are laminated, they will become glossy.

Approved Filler

• Patch and Paint Lightweight Spackling

**Caution needs to be used when using solvent-based paints. EPOR is not as forgiving as EPP. If you are using spray adhesives and/or paints, very light coats should be used so solvents are not in concentrated amounts. It is suggested by manufacturer to stay away from covering large areas with dark, solvent-based paints. Dark colors should be used sparingly. Manufacturer also suggests that Goop is used only on installing winglets, if the area to be mated with winglet has a layer of laminate between the foam and the winglet. Regular CA, Foam Safe CA, or low temperature hot glue are all good options for gluing down the corroplast lid edges. Use caution when using hot glue and be sure it low temperature so it does not melt the foam. Thick versions of each of these glues are recommended. Take caution when curing large pools of CA with activator, as this creates a large amount of heat and may melt foam in these areas.

Build Instructions

Prepare work area: Area should be large and flat.

Join wing halves

1. Follow flat plane and measure down 3/8 inch from top of motor plate shelf. Draw a line and follow the same plane. This will allow you to set the motor plate approximately 1/8 inch above the spar.
2. Pre-fit motor mount plate using a balsa saw or hack saw blade to fit into desired position. Flush with the trailing edge of motor cut out.
3. Lightly spray root with multiple light coats of 3M 90. *Take extreme caution to not allow the adhesive to pool, as it may damage the foam.
4. Let tack for 3-4 minutes, place on flat surface, and take caution to align the roots true.
5. Babysit this joint to ensure a solid bond.
6. Use large snap razor (with new blade) to slice off the raised filler buttons produced during manufacturing. Use multiple passes in same direction, following the contour of air foil.
7. Use sanding block with 200 to 250 grit to smooth out surface where filler buttons were trimmed.
8. Place airplane on surface face up.
9. Pre-fit motor mount and check for proper alignment. Make any adjustments necessary at this time.
10. Mix approximately ½ ounce of 5 Minute Epoxy. Using a Popsicle stick or like object, massage epoxy into motor mount slit. Slide in motor mount plate and align. Gorilla mixed with a small amount of water can be used as an alternative to appoxy.
11. Using small pieces of tape around the perimeter of motor mount slip, use tape to pull motor mount slit closed. This applies pressure to ensure proper bond.

Install main, dark fiber glass tube spars

1. Place wing facing bottom up.
2. Using thick CA glue, place one large bead in the bottom of spar slot.
3. Drop in main spar using blunt tool.
4. Run a bead of thick CA glue on top of the first spar.
5. Drop in second spar.
6. Put a few large drops of CA on top of second spar, and lock down with CA activator (kicker).
7. Using a small cup, mix approximately ½ ounces of dark Gorilla glue (PU glue) with a few drops of water using a Popsicle stick. Mix thoroughly.
8. Pour mixture onto second spar using a Popsicle stick, run back and forth to ensure thorough distribution of glue.
9. Install the rebar spars. The rebar spars are light colored and textured. Install wing spars into small slits that extend to winglets area. To do this, place a thick bead of CA into bottom of channel. Drop in spars and use CA activator (kicker) to lock into place.
10. These spars will overlap the main internals that have been previously installed, creating an I beam spar system.
11. Let Gorilla glue foam and cure to approximately 75%. Do not disturb until at 75%. The outer skin of the PU should be slightly sticky and raised above airplane surface.
12. Use a snap razor to slice off extra glue, following the contour of the plane surface. If the glue is sticky, wait until it gets to the point that it does not stick to the knife. If glue hardens too much, it will be difficult to achieve desired smooth surface.

Install top rod

Install top rod I beam wing spars

1. Place wing face up.
2. Install wing I beam spars in same manner as bottom wing spar with CA glue and accelerator (kicker). Manufacture does not suggest using Gorilla glue under any spars, as this may cause the spars to float.

Prepping Surface

Prepping surface and filling spar gaps and slots surface and filling spar gaps and slots

1. Using 200 grit sanding block, sand all surfaces over spars.
2. Use light-weight spackle and spreader to fill these areas. This process is optional for a smoother finish.
3. After spackle is dry sand smooth.

Install gear

The ZII was designed to accommodate multiple types of set-ups, including FPV, UAV, AP sport flying, and night flying.

1. Setting up gear is up to the user.
2. The main battery bay was designed to accommodate up to (2) 4S 3300 mhr lipos. 4S 4000′s by selected manufacturers will also fit.
3. The main battery bay can be modified and utilized for FPV and UAV electronics.
4. The ZII servo slots are designed for standard size servos. Manufacturer recommends servos with 70 inch ounce of minimum torque.
5. Prior to installing servos, you will need to clear the area of the foam where the wire will exit the servo. This should be done with a small Xacto knife.
6. After clearing the foam make a slit with a razor from the servo to the electronics area.
7. Servos may be installed with thick CA or low temperature hot glue applied to the servo, allowing glue to cool so that it does not melt the foam. Drop servos in place.
8. Clear small slot or hole on divider between the electronics bay and the battery bay to clear channel for ESC wires to penetrate the battery bay area.

Placing bay lids

1. Lay the lid on the battery bay area, mark ending point, and trim to length with scissors. Do the same for the electronics area.
2. Carefully flip lid over and slice the flute at 50% of the length of the lid, making the top side act as a hinge. This will allow for access to the battery bay to slide in battery and close lid.
3. Repeat the process on the electronics bay and size for proper opening for electronics.
4. Mount lids with thick CA applied to the underside of the lid.
5. Hold in place and activate the edges of the lid with CA kicker.
6. Shelves have been placed in the rear of each bay for the use of velcro or rare earth magnet for holding the lids closes. Modify as required.

Prep for covering airplane

1. Inspect airplane for areas for touch up.
2. Touch up any desired areas with light weight spackling and sand paper. Once this is done, the plane can be laminated or paint may be added for color.

No paint option

1. Spray area that is to be laminated ten minutes prior to lamination with even coat of lock tight 200 covering the entire surface. Manufacturer does not suggest spraying the entire plane, only the side to be laminated.
2. Spray ends of wing where the winglets will be mounted.
3. Cut laminating film to fit each right and left wing half.
4. Apply laminate with hobby iron starting at 225-250 degrees. Test small area moving fast.
5. Adjust temperature as necessary to achieve desired effect.

Paint and Film option

1. Paint option requires a smooth, clean surface. It is not necessary to put Lock Tight 200 down before painting process.
2. Manufacturer suggests light, bright and flat colors as these will flash off faster and leave less solvent residual on surface. Dark colors should be used only as accents in multiple light coats. Airbrush paints with low solvent content are recommended. All paints should be applied in multiple, light layers to keep accumulation of solvents to a minimum.
3. Apply desired paint as recommended above.
4. Once paints are dry apply Lock Tight 200 adhesive over entire area to be laminated. Allow to dry for 10-15 minutes. 5. Apply lamination film as directed in the no paint. See section I #3.
5. All areas should be overlapped by one inch.
6. Wing ends should be capped with lamination film. This allows the use of Goop to attach the winglets.
7. Once the plane has been painted and prepped apply laminating film with hobby iron at approximately 225 degrees and increase temperate until desired results occur.

Trimming, prepping, and mounting elevons

1. Hold the control surface against the trailing edge of the airplane. Mark the balsa with light pen or sharp object to ensure the prop cutout area and winglet area follow the same lines. This needs to be done so the movement of the elevon does not interfere with the winglet.
2. After marking use a balsa saw (Zona) or multiple passes with a sharp razor and a straight edge to achieve desired cuts.
3. Manufacturer suggests trimming the inboard side of the trailing edge so the elevon tapers inboard approximately 1/3 of the way to the outboard end. See online build threads for examples.
4. Sand trimmed elevons with 200-250 grit sand paper.
5. If painting elevons is desired best results will be achieved by spraying LockTight 200 over dried, painted surface prior to laminating. The laminating film does not adhere properly to painted surface without the layer of 200.
6. Pre trim laminating film for control surfaces. Leave enough laminating film around the edges to properly wrap and seal.
7. After the elevon has been covered, use small pieces of Scotch tape (Magic Tape) and pre mount elevon to the trailing edge of the plane. Check for proper alignment.
8. Using 3M storage tape hinge the top of the elevon placing 2/3 of the storage tape on to the wing and 1/3 on to the Balsa control surface.
9. Once both sides of the top have been finished flip the wing over. Flip the elevons on top of the wing exposing the root of the elevon. Use 3M storage tape to place 50% of the storage tape on to the bottom of the wing and 50% on to the elevon. This will create a strong and true hinge. See video online for this process.

Mounting Winglets

1. Winglets should be mounted symmetrically with an even amount above the wing and an even amount below the wing.
2. The end of the wing should be capped and laminated.
3. Apply a thin bead of hot glue on the wing end and press winglet into place.
4. After the hot glue has cooled use Goop to run a small bead around the perimeter where the winglet meets the wing. The hot glue is used to hold the winglet in place until the Goop has dried. The Goop is the main strength of attachment. Do not apply Goop directly to bare foam.

Attaching control rods

1. Center servos.
2. Attach control rods and mount control horns to elevons.

ZII Specs

• Wing Area= 770 square inches of wing area
• CG is located on the bottom 9 3/8‘’ to 9 1/2’’ from the nose back.

The Kit includes:

• Plywood GoPro Camera & FPV mount
• LayerLens front plate
• Spare front plate
• Velcro strap

All you need is a glass lens from a GoPro cases or a GoPro lens replacement kit, available from all major GoPro retailers, Ebay or Amazon.

Available from GetFPV (USA) or the Team Black Sheep shop (Europe).

Official Thread about this product at FPVLab

However, committing many hours is not always needed to come up with a functional design. Some things can be built quickly and easily and still yield great performance. The project we’re talking about here is a new Ground Station for a “City Rig” (see the previous article on a Simple City FPV rig). Why build another Ground Station when I have one of the most functional and compact GS around? Simplicity and size. I do most of my flying in Manhattan with a tricopter. A tricopter is great for a city with big parks like New York. But lugging a ground station around is rarely an option when you’re going out on a bike, on foot, or maybe a Vespa. I needed something that fits in a back-pack. I normally fly with a pair of FatShark Dominator Goggles that have a built in RX, but I do need a bit more range than that. I still wanted to retain diversity, but decided that I do not need an antenna tracker since I’ll be using a CP “BluBeam” antenna in combination with a Patch antenna. If the size of your gear is at all a consideration for you (which it is for me), 5.8gHz for your Video signal is an obvious choice. If you compare circularly polarized antenna sizes, you’ll notice that they drop in size dramatically as the frequency goes up. A 2.4gHz BluBeam or Fan antenna is a LOT bigger than a 5.8gHz version of the same antenna. The same can be true for patch antennas. 5.8 is also, in my opinion, an OK choice for flying in urban areas — many disagree here as 5.8 is also used by WiFi hot-spots, so the band is theoretically crowded in a city. But so is 2.4gHz with many cordless phones operating on that band. Like it or not, I’m using 5.8 and have been quite happy with it as I don’t fly long range (for which 5.8 is not the frequency to choose).

The Build

Now then, to build a very functional and small 5.8 ground station in 30 minutes.

Gear List

• ImmersionRC Duo 5800 diversity video RX
• Small 5.8 patch antenna. They come in different strengths and even circularly polarized options. This antenna is 4.5″x4.5″ in size.
• BluBeam Whip Antenna
• 2x 90 degree SMA Male/Female to connect the BluBeam Whip
• FPVJapan DVR
• 2200mah 3s Lipo
• Dolica Proline Tripod
• Dolica AX620 Quick Release Plate
• SMA-Male to SMA-Male Adapter

The “Enclosure”

Have a hardware/lumber store cut you the following pieces out of Plywood for a total of about $10, if that.

• 1 piece of 1/4″ thick, 10″ x 8.5″
• 4 pieces of 1/4″ thick, 4″ x 1″
• 2 pieces of 1/4″ thick, 4.5″ x 1″
• 1 piece of 1/8″ thick, 4.5″ x 4.5″

Insta-Cure CA

The large piece becomes the “main board” to hold all your gear. Take a look at the picture to see how the gear is laid out. The ImmersionRC RX comes with a power cable / barrel connector. Solder that to a Lipo plug. In our case, a male XT-60. The tripod adapter we bought from Amazon has a little C-Clip you have to pull out so that you’re left with just the base. Attach that to the bottom of your ‘base’ with a screw/nut. Glue the smaller pieces of ply onto the larger ‘base’ board. The glue to use for this is the “Insta Cure” CA. This CA works great when you have pieces that have a tiny crack between the parts that the CA can get sucked into via capillary action. You’ll be amazed at how strong the bond is between the smaller 1″ high pieces when glued directly onto the base board. Press the smaller piece onto the base board where you want it and then run a small amount of the CA into the connecting corner. Hold it for about 20 seconds, then let go and let it sit for about an hour to get to its full strength.

Amazon sells the connection plates for the Proline Tripod. We removed the threaded center and installed an M3 screw/nut.

A nice “feature” of this build is that the patch antenna is directly connected to the Duo Video RX without the need of any cable — just a male/male SMA connector. This is the best possible way to connect your patch antenna to your RX, but due to the way we most often build our Ground Stations, this is rarely an option. Laying the GS out on one board enables this easily. We used a 4.5″ x 4.5″ 1/8″ thick piece of Ply to go under the particular patch antenna we’re using here to lift it up closer to where the SMA plug is on the RX. You’d have to adjust this distance for your Video RX and Patch.

To hold the Lipo, we used the two pieces of 4.5″ x 1″ plywood to create a channel. We added a piece of double sided velcro onto the base board. Since the Lipo is held in place by the side walls, this is a very solid way to connect the lipo. It sits security in place, but is quickly pulled out to pop in a new lipo when needed.

The Video RX is also enclosed by two sidewall pieces of plywood (4″ x 1″). We used double sided velcro to attach the Video RX to the base board. Next to the video RX, we doubled up another 4″ x 1″ piece to create a thicker wall and then used some Neoprene tape to create a pressure fit for the FPVJapan DVD — this way, we don’t need any velcro or other attachment method. You simply press the DVR into the channel and it stays put.

We mount this GS board on the tripod in a way that allows us to still push the board into different angels if needed. There are other tripods that have an arm to move the item that sits on the tripod, which the Proline tripod does not have, unfortunately. Tripods equipped with such an ‘arm’ might work better than the tripod we’re using here.

The ImmersionRC Duo has 2 video outs, so you connect your goggles straight into one of the video outputs and your DVR into the other.

It took us 30 minutes and $10 in Plywood to make this Ground Station board. It easily fits into a small backpack as it’s light and flat. The entire Ground Station is about the size of a typical 2.4gHz patch antenna, so it’s a very compact solution. You won’t break any long distance records with this GS, but for a solid picture up to 1 to 2 KM, this will do the trick.

The GS on the Tripod with the BluBeam and Patch Antenna Connected. Both antennas are directly connected to the RX without extension cables.

More…

Thanks to Alex/IBCrazy for pointing out how to improve my connection method for the BluBeam… it’s good to get advice on these kinds of things from the world’s finest FPV antenna pioneer! He made the BluBeam whip I’m using in this build.

To share ideas and suggestions for this build and show us your own build, go to the thread on FPVLab.

The DT-750 HK Motor with its long 4mm diameter threaded shaft.

To try and help this issue I made a 3D CAD model of what the locating ring would need to be to to work with the M4 motor shaft of the DT motors and the APC SF props. The model is now available at shapeways so you can have it 3D printed. The print cost per ring is about $1.60 USD (I don’t mark it up) and shipping is an unfortunate $6.50 via UPS Ground. The total for 3 rings (for a tricopter) including shipping is around $12. Not cheap, but if you invested in these motors and want to fly them with APC props, this solution should work well (but I never bought them and did not test this, so buyer beware).

Another solution FPVLab user Derrick pointed out is to use an M4 lock-nut under the prop with the lat side of the lock-nut facing the prop. It should be small enough to fit inside the space where the locating ring would go. This method also prevents the prop from being pushed too hard onto the motor bell, which can pull the shaft out of position. The bottom lock-nut functions as a stopper and a locating ring.

An upside down lock nut functions as a stopper and locating ring in one. The prop is sandwiched between the two nuts.

As another aside, when you buy these motors, they do not come with an M4 nut which you’ll need to tighten the prop down onto the motor — I find that strange as the motor is useless without this 2 cent part. So make sure you find yourself some M4 nuts if you are buying these motors and an M4 locknut if you want to use it as your locating ring.

For more creative ideas on how you can solve this, check out the thread on FPVLab.

Order the ZII, Laminate Kit, and Camera Case to receive your free LayerLens

EDIT: This offer has ended.

One of my all-time favorite FPV videos is David’s tricopter footage in the Everglades (I embedded the video below). More information on the Pro Tricopter Delrin Kit.

David Windestål preparing his Pro Tricopter Delrin Kit for the next flight (Photo Credit: Chad Kapper / FliteTest)

David has an engraved FC Cover for his Pro Tricopter Kit — why? Because pro cyclists have their name on their bike too!

One of my favorite FPV recordings David did in the Everglades

(disclaimer: this video was not recorded with the Pro Tricopter Delrin Kit)